I like to rotate the flight controller to set the power tab off to the side rather than the back. Now you can slide the flight controller onto the standoffs and screw the motors onto the arms with blue Loctite. Fortunately this makes for a very solid build that's much less likely to break in a crash. They fit together quite tight and sometimes the holes don't line up quite right. This process can be somewhat frustrating as there's virtually no tolerance between the arms. Once all the arms have been fit into place send the same type of metal screw up through the middle holes and cap them with the included nylon standoffs.The screw holes of the 4th arm may not line up quite right, so you may need to use a hex driver to screw through the carbon.Loosely attach a nut to the bottom of each screw to keep the arms in place.

Start with the bottom plate and loosely fit a single screw down through the small carbon plate and through the inner and outer screws of each arm.

While the frame assembly is fairly straightforward there are a few tricks I've learned to make the process go smoother. Not to mention a few other useful features: Here are a few of the improvements over the previous versions: The base weight with props is about 326g and fully loaded with a battery and Legend 3 it's nearly 600g. The Mark III supersedes the more budget oriented Wizard Killer Mark II and is the most featured packed, simple to build and powerful of the three.

The original Wizard Killer was my response to the successful Eachine Wizard RTF quad. This is the 3rd revision in the 'Wizard Killer' series of builds based on the Martian II frame.

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